Paris

 

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187147-d2102994-r118573563-Mini_Festin-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

 

75016 Paris, France

TRIP ADVISOR

Without a doubt the best pizza in the cutting of all Paris. This has become our weekly appointment ... After a gray day in Paris nothing better to cheer you up .. Word of Italian!

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187147-d1988550-r94983130-Pizza_e_fichi-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

TRIP ADVISOR RECOMMENDATION

We tried all different kinds of sweets and very original ', course presentation and delight the palate. The pret-a-manger of 'confectionery excellence in Paris and' undoubtedly Pierre with his two addresses in the heart of Paris. The enjoyment is increased if the tasting takes place on a bench along the Seine, after leaving with a package worthy of a perfect piece of jewelry or precious jacket signed, without doubt, very chic! Do not miss the The Macarons!

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187147-d600886-r102175296-Pierre_Herme-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

TRIP ADVISOR

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187147-d807361-r121454402-BAM_bar_a_manger-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

It's a restaurant near the Rue Rivoli, near Chatelet subway (13 Rue des Lavandières Sainte Opportune). The menu is small and the restaurant, but very well prepared dinner and the price is very reasonable. a good job of restoration.

Small and cozy restaurant. French cuisine, excellent but unpretentious. Right price (33 €). There's nothing like these restaurants, avoid tourist sites where the price / quality is poor and the service leaves much to be desired. You can book through The Tenedor.es

VEGAN PARIS RECOMMENDATION

Voy Alimento is a rare and wonderful thing, a 100% vegan, 100% organic restaurant in Paris serving wonderful food in a welcoming and chic setting.

I’d always loved taking a trip to the Raspail Market and visiting the South American superfoods stand was always a high point, so during Summer’s trip back to Paris there was no way I was going to miss out on checking out their restaurant which has been open for a couple of years in the 10th, right by the Canal St Martin and walking distance from Place de la République.

The setting is a small, cozy converted old bar decorated with earthy, rustic touches but in a minimalist way that keeps the space light and open. A large chalkboard takes up the left hand wall, while the right hand side of the restaurant is taken up by a store selling maca, yacumba and the like.

This restaurant has earned its place as my favorite in the city. It’s vegan, fresh, creative, and the people seem really excited to serve you their amazing food. If I had only one day in Paris, this would be the place I would eat. (I might get a falafel too…ok, I for sure would… at L’As du Falafel…)

23, rue des Vinaigriers, Paris, 75010

Métro Jacques Bonsergent

Tél : 01 42 01 03 44

http://voy-plantes.com/restaurant/

VEGAN PARIS RECOMMENDATION

http://veganparis.com/2009/01/01/saveurs-vegethalles/

Saveurs Végét’Halles is a great little place and oh so almost vegan. In fact their sign declares that they are a “Vegetarian and Vegan restaurant” and their menu declares that they do “Cuisine Sans Oeuf” (Egg free cooking.) They label everything and even label the one non-vegan food item that they make, which is a lasagne in case you were wondering.

It’s right in the middle of the city – right next to the mega Les Halles station- so if you are just passing through the city this could be your vegan destination.

My kids always have the beignets de tofu (tofu ‘nuggets’) and the soy mango lassi. We like the fake fried chicken they make here, and last time I went I had the coconut curry with eggplant and the ‘chicken’: it was lovely and the eggplant was melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

They have a ‘grain of the day’ and ‘potato of the day,’ etc. so the accompaniments will change based on when you go. Our plates had mashed potato and quinoa last time we went.

his is the former location of La Victoire Suprême du Coeur and it is basically the same ambience and menu as the old VSDC.

PROS: Central. Basically vegan, with clear labelling. Hearty portions.

CONS: I never can leave room for dessert! No alcohol.

Végét’Halles
41 rue des Bourdonnais, 75001
01 40 41 93 95
Métro: Châtelet or Les Halles

VEGAN PARIS RECOMMENDATION

Le Potager du Marais


22, Rue Rambuteau, Paris 75003

Métro: Rambuteau

01 42 74 24 66

Organic, with all-day long service. Small, cozy and charming: my favorite ambience. Gets busy weekend evenings, so call for a reservation.

VEGAN PARIS RECOMMENDATION

Pousse-Pousse: Raw Restaurant in Paris
February 4, 2009 by veganparis
After a year and a half in Paris, today I finally visited Pousse-Pousse and my bitter regret at not having gone there long ago is exceeded only by the intense joy I experienced while eating at this Raw oasis in the city.

Pousse-Pousse is a small and elegant raw organic vegetarian restaurant. We arrived and immediately noticed the shelves containing supplies for a raw food lifestyle: masticating juicers (vs. the inferior and ubiquitous centrifugal type), dehydrator, sprouting supplies, including a wide range of seeds and legumes, already sprouted sprouts for take away, green powder superfoods, etc.) But we also noticed the beautiful chandelier and vibrant green tables.


Pousse-Pousse seems to have a philosophy of providing an inviting eating experience to all, and they offer a combination of raw and some cooked vegetarian food. We asked to get our food all-raw: and it was so good, that it would satisfy anyone even if they have never tried, or never enjoyed, raw food before.

We opened up with wheatgrass shots and without irony raised our glasses and said “Santé”.

I wanted lots of greens so we followed the shots with a juice of cucumber, fennel, arugula, ginger, and fruit. Wow! It was alive with delicious complex flavors that just screamed energy.

Next, we shared the plate of the day. It was a salad of mixed greens and sprouts, spring rolls with a glorious pesto dipping sauce, two sprouted legume ‘caviars’, cumin and curry, served with flax and sunflower seed crackers, endive boats filled with perfectly diced and marinated carrot and daikon and also sliced avocado topped with a rich spirulina cream. Yes, it was so good that I had to list every ingredient!

We ate in a lovely friendly atmosphere as the owner, Lawrence, and her team conversed warmly with the happy diners. On the way out, I picked up a raw maca chocolate to take with me.

I have had the fortune to eat in many raw restaurants in the US, and I have to say that Pousse-Pousse is in the highest rank in providing amazing food in a lovely atmosphere. And it does this while being a pioneer in a country that is so associated with its animal-based cuisine.

Raw food usually tends to be costly due to the high quality of the organic and super-food ingredients, and craftsmanship involved. I found the prices at Pousse-Pousse to be very reasonable: for example a fresh juice and a main dish is 17€.

I took a long time to get there, but it won’t be long before I go back!

Pousse-Pousse
7, rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, 75009
Métro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette
01 53 16 10 81

VEGAN PARIS RECOMMENDATION

There are a number of juice bars in town, but unfortunately a lot of them try to get away with pouring you some pasteurized juice from a bottle. If I am going to hit the juice bar, I want them to really get the juice out of some real fruit for me, which is one of the many reasons why I like Bob’s Juice Bar.

Bob’s is a very American kind of juice bar, so if you are feeling good about the USA as of late then you will particularly enjoy being there. They have one communal table and take a very down-to-earth approach to their menu. For the juices, they’ll whip up whatever combo of their delicious fruit and veg that you request. Friday afternoon, I was delighted to enjoy a green juice: spinach, apple and pear and I was even asked if I wanted spirulina (I did!) I got a great feeling of being in a place that really gets what makes food and drink good. This is the only place I’ve visited here in Paris that even gets what ‘Raw’ is: they have raw recipe books, a dehydrator and vitamix and even raw chocolate ‘kisses.’ (Yes, I got some.)

Bob’s is also a wonderful vegetarian spot for lunch (and if you continue north-east from Bob’s you’ll find yourself at the Canal St. Martin a great spot to picnic on a warm day.) Each day Bob’s offers a vegan soup, vegan salad and sometimes vegan sandwich.

To give you an idea the other day the soup was Corn, sweet potato, cumin. Yum! And the salad was Avocado, quinoa, beans, and beets. I saw it and the veggies looked super fresh with greens and grated beets. As they get very little demand for vegan, the muffins are not vegan but the people there are interested in experimenting with vegan recipes and adding some raw creations to their repertoire.

Bob’s is run by Marc Grossman: he is also the author of two cookbooks - I paged through his smoothie book and it looked like there were plenty of vegan concoctions. If like me you read somewhere that they have a raw buffet on Sun. it is no longer taking place. Currently wheatgrass is not available but they’ve got what they need to grow their own. So look for that in the future. A lot of the produce they use is organic, but not all. However, if you want to have an organic-only juice, they can whip one up for you.

From their website you can link to their Facebook page which if full of info, photos and a fun video. You can become a fan. I did!

Bob’s Juice Bar

15, rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010

Métro: Jacques Bonsergent

09 50 06 36 18

http://veganparis.com/2009/02/01/bobs-juice-bar/

VEGAN PARIS RECOMMENDATION

Although it is no London, there are plenty of Indian restaurants in Paris. My favorite has to be Krishna Bhavan, located in the Little Jaffna neighborhood between Gare du Nord and La Chapelle which is home to the city’s Tamil population.

It is said that Tamils consider serving food as a service to humanity, and it shows in the warmth of service you get at this 100% vegetarian restaurant. When you tell your server that you need non-dairy food they will try to make anything on their menu vegan for you. Last night our lovely, English-speaking waitress even went out of her way to reemphasize that everything she was serving us was vegan.

And she served us plenty, because the combination of low, low prices and delicious, delicious food is a deadly one. Last night we started with banana pakoras, which were plantain-like and savory. Samosas were next, in a philo-style pastry followed by idlis. I almost never see idlis over here so I had to order them and they were lovely with their curry and chutney accompaniments. The highlight was the finale of masala dosas: massive, deliciously crispy, potato stuffed lentil-flour pancakes. With my cardamom tea, I was very happy.

There is even more good stuff on the menu, although the one on their site is slightly different than the one they are actually serving at the moment. And if you are not in the mood for a restaurant meal, they serve the same food across the street at their take-out branch. Also in Little Jaffna you can explore the various grocery stores, boutiques, veg-friendly restaurants and cd emporiums in the bustling and welcoming community.

Pros: Vegan friendly, cheap and very welcoming
Cons: No beer

Krishna-Bhavan
24, Rue Cail, 75010
Métro: La Chapelle
01 42 05 78 43

VEGAN PARIS RECOMMENDATION

Guen Mai

6, Rue Cardinale, Paris 75006

Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés

01 43 26 03 24

That means brown rice in Japanese, you know. Macrobiotic. They have a counter service as well as seated dining. Tucked right behind St.-Germain-des-Prés and I love their sidewalk café tables.

Monet's Water Lillies

PROJECT FOR PUBLIC SPACES

Most tourists gawk at the flying buttresses, tour the nave, and move on, but the real pleasure of Notre Dame reveals itself slowly, as you discover the little flourishes that surround it. Take your time exploring the small parks, gardens, and playgrounds that the cathedral supports. These are the places that Parisians enjoy on a daily basis, playing and strolling with one of the world’s most recognizable landmarks as their backdrop. The interplay between Notre Dame and its immediate surroundings forms a lesson that most recent iconic designs have yet to absorb: It takes more than architecture alone to bring people together.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC ARTICLE
http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/02/paris-underground/shea-text/2

HAUSMANN'S ARCHITECTURAL PARIS

L’Opéra Paris, designed by Charles Garnier, is known as one of the greatest public works to come out of this time period. Built in 1861, the opera house unifies not only the city and the quarter that it rests in, but the people of Paris as well. With the newfound industry and technology, the new rich now had free time and could enjoy things like traveling to the countryside for a day or taking in an afternoon performance. The new opera house gave them a place to go and be seen. The building itself is a neoclassical wonder, with Baroque elements, drawing influence from the reigns of previous French rulers. The façade of the building is divided into two levels. The lower entrance level has an arcade of arches adorned with sculpture, while the second level is faced with Corinthian paired columns. The building is adorned with carved decoration as well as a central dome that is richly decorated on the interior. Two smaller domes flank the wings of the building adding the magnificent grandeur of this richly detailed public building. It sits alone in a diamond, with three square plazas surrounding it, isolating the building and emphasizing its importance in modern life. The Paris Opera House is much more richly decorated than any other building built during this time period, but it catered to the rich and those with the time to come spend time within its walls. The building served no governmental purpose, but was instead a site of leisure and pleasure, preserved within its architectural design.16 It is seen even today as a symbol of the nouveux riches and the rise of modernity.

http://www.arthistoryarchive.com/arthistory/architecture/Haussmanns-Architectural-Paris.html

A WALK IN PARIS RECOMMENDATION

favorite cafe

Ice skating is free (skate rental will cost). Also a merri-go-round. Next to City Hall.

 

PROJECT FOR PUBLIC SPACES

Best macaroons and hot chocolate

FRUGAL TRAVELER RECOMMENDATION


Thanks to one of my Twitter followers, @webcowgirl, I found Bistrot Victoires, about halfway between the Louvre and Opéra. The décor was classic — zinc bar, huge mirrors, wood paneling, brass trim — and so was the food. My grilled rib-eye (11 euros) came topped with burning thyme, the embers glowing red, the smoke a haunting perfume. The Côtes du Rhône (13.75 euros a bottle, shared with my three lunch mates) paired nicely, and the crème brûlée (5 euros) was, as the French say (and are then happy with), correct.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/06/28/travel/28frugalparis.html?pagewanted=2

FRUGAL TRAVELER RECOMMENDATION

When evening began to fall, hunger became an issue again. I’d stave it off a bit with a drink at Le Baron Rouge, a bar in an old working-class neighborhood where most of the nearly 50 wines cost less than 3.50 euros, or at Chez Georges, the kind of ancient dive that’s been sustaining impoverished drinkers for decades. (“I used to go there when I was 18!” wrote one friend, now 39, in response to my e-mail invitation.) It’s easy to see why. Beers are 2 euros, kirs 2.50, and all are welcome, from old-timers who wander in and out, to hip kids who groove to the D.J.’s turntables under the stone arches in the basement. In my mind, I saw it as an assommoir, or gin mill, from one of Zola’s novels.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/06/28/travel/28frugalparis.html?pagewanted=2

FRUGAL TRAVELER RECOMMENDATION

Chez Georges, the kind of ancient dive that’s been sustaining impoverished drinkers for decades. (“I used to go there when I was 18!” wrote one friend, now 39, in response to my e-mail invitation.) It’s easy to see why. Beers are 2 euros, kirs 2.50, and all are welcome, from old-timers who wander in and out, to hip kids who groove to the D.J.’s turntables under the stone arches in the basement. In my mind, I saw it as an assommoir, or gin mill, from one of Zola’s novels.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/06/28/travel/28frugalparis.html?pagewanted=2

FRUGAL TRAVELER RECOMMENDATION

A good, inexpensive meal with friends, maybe a visit afterward to a wine bar like Le Garde Robe, where the bartender suggested one of my all-time favorite bottles, the rough and punchy 2001 Domaine Maria Fita (24 euros), and plunked down a baguette and a slab of gnarly terrine. And then I’d walk through the empty streets — watching the occasional Vélib’ rider cruise past, or dodging the raindrops that dripped through the trees — to whichever hotel I was staying in that night.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/06/28/travel/28frugalparis.html?pagewanted=3

FRUGAL TRAVELER RECOMMENDATION

Musée Carnavalet, 23, rue de Sévigné;(33-1) 4459-5858; www.carnavalet.paris.fr, free admission.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/06/28/travel/28frugalparis.html?pagewanted=3

FRUGAL TRAVELER RECOMMENDATION

Le Cul de Poule, 53, rue des Martyrs, (33-1) 5316-1307, is super-playful from its name (literally, chicken butt; figuratively, double-boiler) to its décor (orange chairs, bed-like banquette). But the cooking is serious, precise, creative and affordable, with two courses 23 euros, and three for 26.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/06/28/travel/28frugalparis.html?pagewanted=3

FRUGAL TRAVELER RECOMMENDATION

Le Bar à Soupes, 33, rue de Charonne; (33-1) 4357-5379; www.lebarasoupes.com, offers an excellent lunch deal: a fresh market soup, two types of cheese, bread and a glass of wine for 9.90 euros.

FRUGAL TRAVELER

At Chez Prune, perhaps the neighborhood’s most popular cafe, with a lively terrace, I started making a game of counting the scruffy bearded men with fabulously disheveled coifs — the way only French men can wear their hair. They always seemed to be engaged in nicotine- and wine-fueled debates over their latest film or art projects before they hopped onto their Vespas, mobile phones cleverly tucked inside their helmets. It seemed like the epicenter of artsy intellectualism — the way I imagined Café Select on the Left Bank might have been in the ’60s.

had 3-euro beers at Chez Prune (71, quai de Valmy; 33-1-42-41-30-47), right next to a bridge made famous by Marcel Carné’s 1938 movie “Hôtel du Nord.”

http://frugaltraveler.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/05/28/making-friends-and-dinner-in-paris/

At Point Éphémère (200, quai de Valmy; 33-1-40-34-02-48; www.pointephemere.org), a ramshackle bar-resto-concert-hall-art-space next to a fire station, I ate an excellent steak tartare and a maliciously rich chocolate tart and drank plenty of wine for a very reasonable 20 euros

FRUGAL TRAVELER

On Sunday, the local markets were closed, so I left the 10th Arrondissement to shop at the Marché d’Aligre (Place d’Aligre; marchedaligre.free.fr), in the 12th, which had been recommended by a reader, Shira, for its bountiful produce and by my friends for its low prices. After taking in the scene — hurdy-gurdy men, balloon vendors, tuba players — I got down to business, buying kilo upon kilo of melons, tomatoes, radishes, zucchini, lettuces, peaches, apricots, raspberries and more. Sagging under the weight of my purchases, I’d spent less than 20 euros.

http://frugaltraveler.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/05/28/making-friends-and-dinner-in-paris/

36 Hours in Paris

Perched above the Belleville park, Le Baratin (3, rue Jouye-Rouve; 33-1-43-49-39-70 ) is an unpretentious and intimate wine bar with antique tile floors and worn wood tables. Despite the local buzz, it has managed to stay low-key, so it’s still possible to walk in at an odd hour, sans reservations, and join the bohemian crowd as they sample the dozen or so small-production wines, scratched on the chalkboard.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/12/19/travel/19hours-paris.html?pagewanted=all

36 Hours in Paris

In recent years, the area around Pigalle has drawn Parisian tastemakers looking for a good time — with their clothes on. Start with a drink at Hôtel Amour (8, rue de Navarin; 33-1-48-78-31-80; hotelamourparis.fr), an artsy hotel decorated with disco balls and Terry Richardson photographs that is partly owned by the reigning king of Paris night life, André Saraiva.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/12/19/travel/19hours-paris.html?pagewanted=all

36 Hours in Paris

By now, you can pretty much find those Lanvin flats and Céline bags back home. But Bambi-shaped shoes? Or a Kermit the Frog jacket? The aristocrat fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac has a new boutique in St.-Germain (61, rue des St.-Pères; 33-9-64-48-48-54; jc-de-castelbajac.com) where fashion inspiration comes from unexpected places, like “Paradise Lost” and Donald Duck.

36 Hours in Paris

One bite, and you’ll understand why there’s a long line outside Du Pain et Des Idées (34, rue Yves Toudic; 33-1-42-40-44-52; dupainetdesidees.com), a cultish boulangerie in the Canal St.-Martin neighborhood. The escargot chocolat-pistache, a snail-shaped pastry filled with chocolate and pistachio, will shatter the will of any dieter. So will the mini-pavés, savory knots stuffed with spinach and goat cheese.

 

36 Hours in Paris

For a digestif, join the assorted intellectuals crowding the classic zinc bar at La Belle Hortense (31, rue Vieille-du-Temple; 33-1-48-04-71-60; www.cafeine.com), a cozy Old World-style wine bar. Straight and gay, leather-bound and tweed-wrapped, the crowd swirls wines by the glass and chats animatedly about highfalutin topics. Even if you don’t know your Derrida from your derrière, no worries: The place is also a bookstore, stacked high with centuries of French and international literature. The back lounge, which has rotating art exhibitions, is the perfect spot to sip some hearty red Guigal Côte du Rhone (4.50 euros) and bone up on everything from Anouilh to Zola.

 

36 Hours in Paris

The oldest covered market in Paris, the Marché des Enfants Rouges (enter on rue Charlot) was established in the early 1600s and remains a center of Marais life. A new structure has replaced the original, but it still houses cheesemongers, vintners and grocers. Better, there’s a bounty of small restaurants that resembles a Benetton ad: Italian, Japanese, French, Afro-Caribbean, Middle Eastern. Traiteur Marocain (33-01-42-77-55-05) ladles out Moroccan fare like fresh grilled sardines (7.50 euros) and lamb-prune-sesame tajine (8.85 euros).

 the Cornet Vegetarien — a sandwich of fresh greens, grated carrots and fennel, marinated onions and thinly sliced avocado, dressed with olive oil and honey and dusted with chives and lime zest — was like nothing I’d ever eaten. And the man who prepared it, Alain, a barrel-chested maestro who was given to bursts of song and dance, always made my day.

36 Hours in Paris

As you enter the narrow, cobblestone rue des Rosiers, the smell of fresh-baked challah drifts from bakeries, and school kids in yarmulkes pop out of doorways adorned with the Star of David. This is the heart of Jewish Paris. Many Parisians say that the nation’s best shwarma and falafel are served at L’As du Fallafel. Alas, every tourist from every continent seems to be in on the news, resulting in lines more common to Madonna concerts. Instead, cross the street to Mi-Va-Mi (23, rue des Rosiers; 33-1-42-71-53-72), where the lines are shorter, the service is friendlier, and the falafel (5 euros) and spit-grilled shwarma (7 euros) are almost equally good. Ask for some zesty red salade Turque on top and finish with excellent fig strudel (3.20 euros) at nearby Florence Finkelstein (24, rue des Ecouffes; 33-1-48-87-92-85).

http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/10/19/travel/19hours.html

36 Hours in Paris

As you enter the narrow, cobblestone rue des Rosiers, the smell of fresh-baked challah drifts from bakeries, and school kids in yarmulkes pop out of doorways adorned with the Star of David. This is the heart of Jewish Paris. Many Parisians say that the nation’s best shwarma and falafel are served at L’As du Fallafel. Alas, every tourist from every continent seems to be in on the news, resulting in lines more common to Madonna concerts. Instead, cross the street to Mi-Va-Mi (23, rue des Rosiers; 33-1-42-71-53-72), where the lines are shorter, the service is friendlier, and the falafel (5 euros) and spit-grilled shwarma (7 euros) are almost equally good. Ask for some zesty red salade Turque on top and finish with excellent fig strudel (3.20 euros) at nearby Florence Finkelstein (24, rue des Ecouffes; 33-1-48-87-92-85).

 

FRUGAL PARIS

By the water, there is a small pink dot of a helium balloon, bobbing in the intermittent breeze. The balloon is key. It was given to you by Pink Flamingo, a pizza parlor down the nearby Rue Bichat, whose bicycle deliveryman will use it as a beacon to locate you and present the five pies you’ve ordered (10.50 to 16 euros each). They’re not all for you, of course — you’ve got friends to help eat the pizza and drink the four bottles of red wine (40 euros) you picked up from Le Verre Volé, a wine bar across the canal.

You’ll love the pizza’s quirky toppings — the Poulidor’s goat cheese and sliced duck breast, the bacon-and-pineapple Obama — and the earthy pinot noir. But finally it will be dark and you’ll be more than tipsy and your friends will be heading home by Métro, by Vespa and by Vélib’, the city’s rental bicycle system.

36 Hours in Paris

But though it now defines the beaten path, the Marais still holds, if not secrets, then overlooked — and inexpensive — delights. Chief among them is the Carnavalet, one of 14 free museums run by the city, this one focusing on the history of Paris itself. In a conjoined pair of opulent 16th- and 17th-century mansions, dozens of exhibitions track the city’s evolution, from prehistory (represented by fossilized canoes) to the Middle Ages to relatively modern times (a niche containing Proust’s bedchamber). I was captivated by an 1890 painting of the Canal St.-Martin, looking almost as it does today, mirroring the lights of buildings at night, but also by a 16th-century painting of an anti-Henri IV march by soldiers and priests at the Place de Grève. All around them, everyday city life thrives — men cut wood, repair boats and fight over a pig.

FRUGAL TRAVELER COMMENT

there the gorgeous dramatic park Buttes Chaumont, you never saw anything like it with waterfalls fake islands fantastic trees flowers and grass areas (pelouses) for picnic and lovely lowpriced hotels food markets food streets all around a genuine Paris noone has discovered. I live there so I know.
The park is near the highest spot in Paris with gorgeous views (80 m above the Seine) easy to get to via bus and metro. And by the way the metro is a lousy way to travel, not only horribly staircases but also you see nothing. Start using the bus, it is such fun and you see so much.
Stop being afraid of Paris, Matt.

 

FRUGAL PARIS COMMENT

I live in Paris and the restaurant that Catherine is talking about is called “Robert et Louise,” address: 64 Rue Vieille du Temple. It rocks, the meat is excellent and one soaks in the smell of the fire- only to notice it upon exiting.

 

I was first introduced to Canal St.-Martin on Paris’s east side by a friend who lived there and took me on my maiden Vélib’ bike ride, guiding me past the waterway’s peaked iron bridges and enchanting locks — where Amélie had skipped stones — to the flat and sprawling Parc de la Villette just north of the neighborhood.

NYT PARIS SIDEWAYS

Parc de la Villette just north of the neighborhood. The boomerang-shaped canal was once Napoleon’s conduit for supplying fresh water to Paris. Later, the surrounding area became home to the working classes. But since the millennium, as my friend pointed out — and I couldn’t help but notice as we wended our way through picnicking Parisians flaunting Ray-Bans, iPhones and flashy baskets (sneakers) — the quartier has attracted more and more artists and writers, young couples and hipsters (or bobos — “bourgeois bohemians” — in Parisian parlance).

LONDON GUARDIAN

The Quartier d'Aligre, not far from Bastille, is becoming one of the trendiest parts of Paris, and one of the earliest "neo bistrots" to open here was L'Ebauchoir. On the bargain set menu at lunch you'll discover old-fashioned traditional dishes - roast guinea fowl, braised pork ribs and an irresistible crème caramel - while in the evening, the more expensive à la carte formula lets chef Thomas Dufour conjure up more inventive gourmet dishes. Wonderful frescoes decorate the walls and the friendly staff create a lively atmosphere.

· 43, rue de Citeaux; + 33 (0)1 4342 4931; lebauchoir.com. Set lunch, €14 (£11); dinner a la carte, €35-40 (£28-31). Metro: Faidherbe-Chaligny

THE GUARDIAN

The Boulangerie has always had a strong reputation for both its tasty cooking and the romantic surroundings of what was a turn-of-the-century bakery. And since it was been taken over by the larger-than-life Nidhsain brothers, with Hassan in the kitchen inventing surprising dishes, and Nordin theatrically holding court as the maitre d', a great time is assured both at lunch and dinner. For the evening, you must book a couple of days in advance, and after dinner, check out the nightlife in one of the city's hipper quarters.

· 15 rue des Panoyaux; +33 (0)1 4358 4545. Set lunch, €17 (£13.50); set dinner, €30 (£24). Metro: Menilmontant

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/17/paris.restaurants

You won't read about Les Dingues - The Crazies - in any guidebook, and you won't see any tourists here either, because this is a rare find - an authentic neighbourhood bistrot oozing with Parisian character. There are always a crowd of noisy regulars gathered at the bar, where it seems to be pastis-a-go-go all day long. The chef, Pat Basille, looks like a character from the Pirates of the Caribbean, but in his tiny kitchen he creates seriously delicious dishes like entrecote steak flambéd in cognac or ravioli poached in brie sauce, which are included on the very reasonably-priced set lunch and dinner menu. After lunch, discover the nearby Viaduc des Arts, an old viaduct converted into artisan ateliers and shops.

· 17 rue de Rambouillet; +33 (0)1 4345 3538. Set lunch, €15 (£12); set dinner, €20 (£16). Metro: Gare de Lyon

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/17/paris.restaurants

THE GUARDIAN

After lunch, discover the nearby Viaduc des Arts, an old viaduct converted into artisan ateliers and shops.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/17/paris.restaurants

THE GUARDIAN CHEAP BISTROS

Chef Jean-Francois Debre has his own Rive Gauche gourmet restaurant, Chez Maître Paul, but decided a few years ago that he also wanted to open a more simple bistrot, with a relaxed atmosphere where people could eat well without always paying a fortune. And Parisians were obviously looking for this, as Les Racines is full every lunchtime, and was also voted bistrot of the year by France's leading food critic, Gilles Pudlowski. You won't find a prix fixe set menu here, as the chef prefers to concentrate on his different dishes of the day, a hearty meal in themselves. Expect classic favourites like blanquette de veau (veal stew) and slowly simmered beef cheeks, and for warmer summer days, red mullet à la plancha with olive oil mashed potatoes.

· 22 rue Monsieur Le Prince; +33 (0)143260386. Lunch, plat du jour, €12 (£10); dinner, a la carte, €20-25 (£16-20). Metro: Odeon.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/17/paris.restaurants

THE GUARDIAN


Le Pre Verre is one of the hottest addresses in Paris, combining a perfect Left Bank location with creative cuisine at exceptionally reasonable prices and a fabulous selection of wines from all over France. The talented chef, Philippe Delacourcelle, takes all the traditions of French cuisine and mixes them with Asian spices and cooking methods. So, as an entree, you may have an old-fashioned hure de porc, grilled pig's muzzle, but cooked in a five-spices sauce, followed by tender cod braised with cinnamon, served on a bed of smoked potato puree. The lunch menu is one of the best deals in town, so reservations are essential.

· 8 rue Thenard; +33 (0)1 4354 5947; lepreverre.com. Set lunch, €13.50 (£11); set dinner, €27.50 (£22). Metro: Cluny

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/17/paris.restaurants

THE GUARDIAN

In the heart of the buzzing Butte aux Cailles, a village in the middle of Paris, this outstanding bistrot is one of the best budget eateries in town. The cuisine is 100% Basque, and the place resembles a country auberge. Prices are cheap, portions enormous, and the house wine is eminently drinkable. They don't take bookings, so a crowd invariably builds up outside, drinking wine out of plastic glasses as the restaurant doesn't have a proper bar licence. Dish of the day is usually a simple affair - poulet a la moutarde or hachis parmentier (French shepherd's pie) - and their giant salads are a meal in themselves.

· 5 rue des Cinq Diamants; +33 (0)1 4580 7010. Lunch, plat du jour €8 (£6); dinner a la carte, €15 (£12). Metro: Place d'Italie

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/17/paris.restaurants

THE GUARDIAN

The trend of offering gastronomic cuisine at reasonable prices may be a new one, but several ancient bistrots excelling in traditional French cuisine have been hidden away for decades. Chez Germaine is definitely one of these, an intimate, romantic dining room of just 25 seats. Wonderful homemade terrines, tasty grillades of the day, and tempting desserts like papillon au chocolat. And Chez Germaine is one of the rare addresses where the set price menu doesn't go up in the evening. Remember that the bistrot is just by the chic Bon Marche department store, where foodies shouldn't miss visiting their Grande Epicerie food hall, the Parisian equivalent of Fortnum & Mason.

· 30 rue Pierre Leroux; +33 (0)1 4273 2834. Set lunch & dinner, €16.50 (£13). Metro: Vaneau

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/17/paris.restaurants

THE GUARDIAN

Although it is worth reserving a table here just for the delightfully kitsch 60s design, the owner, Georgette herself, creates a surprising menu built around seasonal products, especially vegetables. She doesn't have a set menu, and prices are not quite bistronomiques, but it is refreshing to see dishes like free range chicken roasted and stuffed with a seasonal aromatic herb (reine des pres), tender supions (baby squids) with homemade pasta, or a delicious garlicky brandade de morue (creamy cod mashed up with potatoes).

· 29 rue Saint-Georges; +33 (0)1 4280 3913. Lunch, plat du jour, €15-18 (£12-14); dinner, a la carte, €40 (£32). Metro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/17/paris.restaurants

THE GUARDIAN

Rue Lepic is a long narrow street that winds up to the heights of Montmartre. Sadly, many of the restaurants here are desperately touristy, cashing in on the evocative era of Picasso and Toulouse-Lautrec, and menus offering soupe a l'oignon and boeuf bourguignon are to be avoided. But right at the start of the street, in the hip Abbesses neighbourhood, is the funky bistrot, Un Zebre a Montmartre. The cuisine here is light, Provencal, with dishes like tuna carpaccio or marinated scallops, and the interiors are a riot of psychedelic colours. Open until two in the morning, you can also just stop off for a drink.

· 38 rue Lepic; +33 (0)1 4223 9780; unzebreamontmartre.com. Set lunch, €15 (£12); set dinner €21 (£17). Metro: Abbesses

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/17/paris.restaurants

 

 

PROJECT FOR PUBLIC SPACES
http://www.pps.org/blog/great-public-spaces-jardin-des-plantes-paris-france/

PROJECT FOR PUBLIC SPACES
recommends the park, negative is the location:
http://www.pps.org/city-commentaries/case-studies-parks/

The Jardin des Tuileries is in many ways a sister park to Luxembourg Gardens. It has many of the same qualities: major focal points, activities for children, and cafés for everyone.

Unlike Luxembourg Gardens, the Jardin des Tuileries is located between two major tourist destinations (The Louvre and the Arc de Triomphe), and functions mostly as a park for people to stroll through. As they pass from one place to another they also stop to partake in some of the many offerings along the way. The sailboat pond is a big attraction right on the main path that slows the steady flow of “flâneurs.” Nearby are smaller pools of water, sculptures, small cafes, a carousel and plenty of seating. Further from the main flow are large areas that occasionally host events. These areas seem to be perfect settings for fashion shows and other very Parisian activities.

We caution that as a public space, the park should adhere to a public viewing or participation standard for its events. New York’s Bryant Park is on our “Hall of Shame” because it allows exclusive, invitation-only events to take over the entire center of the park. On our recent trips to the Jardin des Tuileries, a large tent structure along the north side of the park has become a setting for similar events. This large area could easily provide a venue for large public exhibitions, events, and playing fields which are sorely lacking in the rest of Paris.

The only drawback to the Jardin des Tuileries is its isolation from nearby places. Once you are there, it is wonderful, but getting there is often a real challenge. Three of the main obstacles are the Place de la Concorde, Quai des Tuileries, and the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. The Jardin itself is a world class treasure, but its connections to the rest of the area are deficient.

The Louvre and the Arc de Triomphe have more name recognition, but the Tuileries Garden, which lies between the two, is where you’ll find the real action. A boulevard without buildings, the Tuileries is the quintessential promenade. Join the stream of flâneurs and immerse yourself in the pleasures of strolling at its finest. As with all great places, the Tuileries must be savored to experience it fully. Take some time away from the main path, because the periphery is filled with fountains, sculptures, lovely outdoor cafés, and hundreds of movable chairs filled with Parisians enjoying the procession of boulevardiers.

PROJECT FOR PUBLIC SPACES RECOMMENDATION

Palais Royal is a refuge from the surrounding city, a place for those seeking calm and peacefulness. Some of our best images of children and seniors relaxing in comfort are from this place. One of our favorite pictures depicts a septuagenarian couple hugging with his hand on her knee. The way we see it, this is the highest form of praise for a public space.

This park, actually a giant courtyard, exemplifies the concept of the inner park and the outer park, which emphasizes the importance of edge uses (or the “outer park”) to the success of a park or square. Palais Royal is surrounded by an arcade filled with small stores and restaurants. There are no major streets around it; the next ring of streets beyond the arcade are small and comfortable to walk along.

Its variety of amenities, while seemingly limited, creates a setting ripe for improvisation. For example, many children use the northern part of the park, but amazingly the only thing for them to play with is a sand box. Yet the kids improvise and make their experience much richer than one could ever imagine.

On the southern edge of the park sits a large sculpture area comprised of 280 closely-placed black and white columns of varying height. Although it takes up too much space, it nevertheless has great appeal to those who venture there. Children in particular seem to delight in experimenting with the variety of uses for the different columns.
 

 

THE GUARDIAN

With the imposing Place des Vosges and its opulent palaces, stylish fashion boutiques and tempting antique stores, the Marais is one of the most seductive neighbourhoods of Paris, but it is not always easy to find a reasonable bistrot. Tucked away down a sidestreet, though, not far from the infamous spot where Jim Morrison died, is Vins des Pyrenees. This used to be a wine depot and none of the decor was altered when it was transformed into a bistrot. Don't expect to find Basque cuisine from the Pyrenees, as the cooking here is classic French terroir, where the dish of the day could be a fillet of sea bream, and the house speciality is a massive côte de boeuf (T-bone steak) for two people.

· 25 rue Beautreillis; +33 (0)1 4272 6494. Set lunch, €13.50 (£11); dinner, a la carte, €30-35 (£24-28) including house wine. Metro: St-Paul

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/17/paris.restaurants

PROJECT FOR PUBLIC SPACES
A compact thoroughfare filled chockablock with wonderful uses, Rue de Buci is as lively a street as you can imagine. Produce stands and flower stalls, cafés and street markets, all combine to make an agglomeration of activity more intense than any outside of the bazaars and souks of the Middle East and Asia. There’s always a lot of passion on display as the street merchants, performers, and even pedestrians compete aggressively for attention.

PROJECT FOR PUBLIC SPACES

PROJECT FOR PUBLIC SPACES

CHRIS AYERS GALLERY

CHRIS AND THAS HOTEL

INHABITAT RECOMMENDATION

http://inhabitat.com/tour-bois-le-pretre-60s-parisian-social-housing-tower-renovated-into-gleaming-efficient-apartment-complex/

What was once a very bland apartment complex on the edge of Paris has been refurbished into a gleaming high-rise that saves a lot of resources and greatly enhances residents' quality of life. Tour Bois-le-Prêtre started out in the late '50s as a modernist housing block, and it underwent a disastrous remodel in the early '90s. Fortunately, Frédéric Druot Architecture came to the rescue with a total remodel of the façade, and they extended the apartments to infuse the living spaces with light while dramatically increasing the amount of floor area and doubling their energy efficiency.

Read more: Tour Bois-le-Prêtre: 60's Parisian Social Housing Tower Renovated into Gleaming Efficient Apartment Complex | Inhabitat - Green Design Will Save the World

The 17-story building was conceived as a low-cost social housing block – one of many that popped up throughout Europe at the time. A façade renovation 20 years ago eliminated much of the character of the building – and worse – cut off much of the natural light and views. Rather than absorbing the cost of tearing the building down and developing replacement housing, the Paris housing authority gave the go-ahead to save the building with a brilliant scheme.

Frédéric Druot Architecture designed a prefabricated extension to each apartment. The lightweight sun rooms and balconies hang off the original walls and are supported by steel posts. The building’s existing façade was replaced by sliding glass doors. The building gained about 2/3 more square footage at minimal costs. An elevator was also added to the addition and an interior one was removed to add living space. The program of many of the 97 apartments was tweaked to reconfigure the floor plan. The apartments themselves were minimally disturbed by the additions, which meant that residents did not have to move out during construction.



Read more: Tour Bois-le-Prêtre: 60's Parisian Social Housing Tower Renovated into Gleaming Efficient Apartment Complex | Inhabitat - Green Design Will Save the World

CHOCOLATE AND ZUCCHINI RECOMMENDATION

Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday morning

CHOCOLATE AND ZUCCHINI RECOMMENDATION

Monge
Place Monge
Wednesday, Friday, Sunday morning

 

Port Royal
Boulevard de Port Royal, along the Val de Grâce hospital
Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday morning

BACKGROUND

 

 

 

 

Ellison's favorite restaurant. Highly encouraged to make reservations.

Ellison recommendation

Ellison restaurant recommendation

METROPOLIS ARTICLE
http://www.metropolismag.com/story/20110315/small-wonder

PARIS BREAKFAST RECOMMENDATION

http://parisbreakfasts.blogspot.com/2012/01/january-diet.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ParisBreakfast+%28Paris+Breakfast%29&utm_content=Google+Reader

35 Parisian New Year's Resolutions

http://www.vingtparismagazine.com/2012/01/new-years-in-paris-.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+IVYParisNews+%28I+V+Y+Paris+News%29&utm_content=Google+Reader

HAPPY COW WEBSITE

cupcakes and other baked goods

http://veganfolies.fr/

HAPPY COW WEBSITE

A popular restaurant with a small but varied menu of salads, soups, vegetable tarts, ragouts over rice, desserts, and organic wine. Homestyle cooking. Small, well-lit and inviting space. Confirmed open as of Dec 07. Open Mon-Fri lunch only, weekend dinner by appointment.

HAPPY COW RECOMMENDATION

A very small, rustic, cozy Paris vegetarian restaurant decorated with lush plants. Serves traditional French cuisine in vegetarian, with 1 page of vegan selections. Vegan soups, tarte, pate, patty, gratin, moussaka, desserts, and more. A talented pastry chef is preparing all vegan desserts including lemon bars, carrot cake and blueberry bundt. Has a 3-course dinner menu for about 25 euro. Reservations suggested. Directions: From metro station Rambuteau, you see Rue Rambuteau from the exit, restaurant is on 50 meters on the left. Accepts credit cards. Open Mon-Fri 6-10pm, Sat-Sun lunch and dinner.

HAPPY COW RECOMMENDATION

Paris Indian restaurant serving vegetarian cuisine. Public transit: Gare du Nord. Accepts credit cards. Open Mon-Sun 8am-10:30pm.

HAPPY COW

Small Buddhist vegetarian restaurant. Menu is in English and includes mockmeat options. No eggs or alcohol used. Average price per dish is around 5.5-7 euro, or around 7.5-10 euros for a 3-course. Accepts credit cards. Open Tue-Sun 11.30am-3pm, 6.30-10.30pm, closed Mon.

HAPPY COW RECOMMENDATION

Serves meat, veg options available. Cozy little Ethiopian restaurant in the Latin Quarter. Offers a separate vegetarian menu, although it seems to list fish under that menu. Puts butter in most of their vegetarian dishes. Has a traditional vegetarian/vegan platter for four, with extra injera bread. Also has good inexpensive Ethiopian beer. Seems to get quite crowded around 9pm.

DAVID FRANK SUGGESTION

http://www.paris.fr/english/parks-woods-gardens-and-cemeteries/gardens/promenade-plantee/rub_8212_stand_34230_port_18987

The Promenade plantée (French: tree-lined walkway) or the Coulée verte (French: green course) is a narrow, 4.7 km (2.9 mi) parkway in the 12th arrondissement of Paris, France.

The Promenade plantée is a extensive green belt that follows the old Vincennes railway line. Beginning just east of the Opéra Bastille with the elevated Viaduc des Arts, it follows a 4.7 km (2.9 mi) path eastward that ends at a spiral staircase leading to the boulevard Périphérique beltway. As of 2010, the Promenade Plantée access under the beltway is closed, although the Bois de Vincennes, just on the other side of the closed access, can be reached through the bustling streets of the Saint-Mandé district.

At the western, Bastille end of the parkway, it rises 10 m above the surrounding area and forms the Viaduc des Arts, a line of shops emphasizing highly skilled arts and crafts. The shops are located in the arches of the former elevated railway viaduct, with the parkway being supported atop the viaduct. This portion of the parkway runs parallel to the avenue Daumesnil. The parkway intersects the Jardin de Reuilly near the rue Montgallet and descends to street level. At that point, it becomes a mall and then follows the old railway right-of-way below street level towards the east, passing through several tunnels. As it reaches the rue du Sahel, it splits, with one portion continuing to the beltway, and the other terminating in the square Charles-Péguy along the former path of a branch line that one linked to the Petite Ceinture railway. The high-level route has some enclosed sections, as when it passes between modern buildings, and some open sections with expansive views.

In addition to the jardin de Reuilly and the square Charles-Péguy, the Promenade Plantée also includes the jardin de la gare de Reuilly, with its preserved but unused railway station, and the square Hector-Malot.

While other abandoned railways have been converted into parks and parkways, the Promenade Plantée is the first green space constructed on an elevated viaduct.

The Promenade Plantée is built on the former right-of-way of the Vincennes railway line, which linked the Bastille station to Verneuil-l'Étang beginning in 1859, passing through Vincennes. It ceased operation on December 14, 1969; part of the line was integrated into Line A of the RER, while the Paris-Vincennes was completely abandoned.

Beginning in the 1980s, the area was renovated. In 1984, the Bastille station was demolished to permit construction of the Opéra Bastille. The Reuilly area was designed in 1986; it incorporated the old commercial rail depot of Reuilly into a group of park areas. The Promenade Plantée was put into place at the same time in order to reuse the rest of the abandoned line between the Bastille and the old Montempoivre gate to the city. Landscape architect Jacques Vergely and architect Philippe Mathieux designed the parkway, and it was inaugurated in 1993. The arcades of the Viaduc des Arts were renovated in 1989, as was the new square Charles-Péguy.

The parkway was the only elevated park in the world for some years, but the first phase of the High Line, a similar park on an old railway-viaduct in the Chelsea neighborhood of Manhattan, was completed in 2010, and the second phase was completed in 2011; the third phase is still pending. There are also plans for the Bloomingdale Trail in Chicago and on old Reading Viaduct elevated rail in the Callowhill section of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

[edit]Access

The western portion of the parkway may be accessed via stairways and elevators leading up to the elevated viaduct. This portion is reserved for pedestrians. The eastern portion of the parkway is accessible via ramps and stairways and is open to both pedestrians and cyclists. The west end can be reached from Bastille by walking 300 m south on Rue de Lyon, then left on Avenue Daumesnil. The staircase entrance is immediately on the left where Avenue Daumesnil enters rue de Lyon.

[edit]In popular culture

The Promenade Plantée appears in the film Before Sunset, directed by Richard Linklater in 2004 with Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy. It is also mentioned in the science fiction novel Olympos, by Dan Simmons.