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FRUGAL TRAVELER COMMENT
there the gorgeous dramatic park Buttes Chaumont, you never saw anything like it with waterfalls fake islands fantastic trees flowers and grass areas (pelouses) for picnic and lovely lowpriced hotels food markets food streets all around a genuine Paris noone has discovered. I live there so I know.
The park is near the highest spot in Paris with gorgeous views (80 m above the Seine) easy to get to via bus and metro. And by the way the metro is a lousy way to travel, not only horribly staircases but also you see nothing. Start using the bus, it is such fun and you see so much.
Stop being afraid of Paris, Matt.