From Departures Blackbook:There are three words any food-loving, wine-drinking visitor to Venice should know: bàcaro, a wine bar; ombra, a small glass of wine consumed at a bàcaro; and cicchetti, which are bàcaro snacks—Venetian tapas, if you will. Put them together and you have a great (and not at all expensive) night out.Here's our interactive guide to the best of Venice's back alley bars & restaurants.


0: Antiche Carampane
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1: Caffè Florian
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2: Starhotels Splendid Venice?
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3: Antico Martini Ristorante
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4: Harry's Bar
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5: Cantina Do Mori
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6: Al Marca
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7: Naranzaria
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8: Enoteca Cantinone Già Schiavi
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9: Al Covo
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10: Alle Testiere
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11: Trattoria Do Forni - Cucina Casalinga
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12: Ostaria al Garanghelo
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13: Al Ponte
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14: Enoteca Al Volto
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15: Ai Rusteghi
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16: Taverna Del Campiello Remer
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17: Al Nono Risorto
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18: Ae Oche
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19: Bacaro Risorto
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20: Ca' d'Oro
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21: La Cantina
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22: ProntoPesce
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23: Al Diavolo e L'Acqua Santa
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24: Al Mascaron
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25: Casa del Parmigiano
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26: Muro Pizza e Cucina
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27: Enoteca do Colonne
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28: Birraria La Corte
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29: Caffè dei Frari
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30: La Zucca
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31: Bacaro Jazz
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32: Margaret Duchamp
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33: Piano Bar Ristorante Live music Ancora
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34: Osteria alla Bifora
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35: Venetia Studium
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36: Zora da Venezia
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37: L'Osteria di Santa Marina
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38: All' Arco
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39: Cantina Do Mori
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40: Ai Do Draghi
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41: Osteria Da Fiore
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Lugares de interés (POIs) del Mapa

0: Antiche Carampane

This is the favorite restaurant of Francesca Bortolotto Possati, the owner of the Bauer Hotels Group in Venice.

(closed on Sunday & Monday)


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1: Caffè Florian

Departures Magazine recommends this is a spot to have a drink right on San Marco piazza. One of the oldest coffeehouses in Venice.

Hit the back bar where the prices are less than at the tables.


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2: Starhotels Splendid Venice?

Our digs for the weekend. This high-end hotel has modern touches, yet with an old world touch and situated wonderfully between San Marco and the Rialto Bridge. Wonderful TripAdvisor reviews.


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3: Antico Martini Ristorante

Recommend in Venice Blackbook issue from Departures Magazine. Great location right next to La Fenice Theater. One of the oldest ristorantes in Venice.

From Blackbook:

"...a delectable respite from the total seafood immersion that is the typical Venetian menu...meat and game, roasted or braised, are the stars here...the adjacent wine bar, Vino Vino, shares the same kitchen and offers a more affordable and laid back option."


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4: Harry's Bar

The Cipriani family’s Grand Canal classic could easily have succumbed to its own hype: the Hemingway legacy, the never-ending Bellinis, the $30 club sandwiches. Yet despite the phenomenal pricing and the tourist throngs, the romance persists.

-Departures Magazine


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5: Cantina Do Mori

Part of Departures Magazine bacaro crawl. They say it's the most famous and old of the bacaris. Try the baby octopus and eggplant.

Also featured on No Reservation as part of tapas bar crawl.


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6: Al Marca

Part of Departures Magazine bacaro crawl. They say it's known for their little delicious sandwiches.


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7: Naranzaria

Part of Departures Magazine bacaro crawl. Excellent Asian-inflected cicchetti.


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8: Enoteca Cantinone Già Schiavi

Part of Departures Magazine bacaro crawl. The ysay it regularly wins cicchetti competitions.

From The Guardian's 'Eat Like a Local in Venice'

Opposite Cantinone–già Schiavi (992 Ponte San Trovaso), located on a canal in Dorsoduro, is another symbol of disappearing Venice: one of the city's last gondola workshops. Schiavi is really a wine shop that sells food on the side – although the cheese and fennel crostini were delicious. The walls are covered floor to ceiling by bottles, and there is a fantastic choice of 10 or so wines by the glass, mostly from the Veneto region, starting at €2. That, I noted, was the same price as the house, so I made a pest of myself and started to work through the labels (well, the glasses are tiny).


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9: Al Covo

From Departures Magazine:

For Cesare and Diane Benelli, the chef-owners of the 23-year-old Al Covo, Venice is the perfect base for the Slow Food movement. It inspires in them a locavore culinary style, reliance on the lagoon for seafood and nearby mainland towns for organic and biodynamic produce (Chioggia for onions; Treviso and Castelfranco for radicchio). In the Benellis’ gracious, if perhaps overly upholstered, dining room, the typically Venetian seafood menu is likely to feature marinated anchovies, tiny vongole veraci clams served in their shells over spaghetti in a light broth enriched with olive oil, and spaghetti, colored black with cuttlefish ink and dressed with plump scampi (pictured). Texas-born Diane brings a decidedly American sensibility to dessert: her dark-chocolate cake served with chile pepper–spiced chocolate sauce is a signature, and she’s been known to produce a pecan pie from time to time.


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10: Alle Testiere

Closed Sundays and Mondays.

With only 22 seats, this low-key but acclaimed osteria is the unadorned and gently priced alternative to the city’s more luxurious seafood meccas. Steps from San Marco, at the edge of Castello, Alle Testiere was once a closely guarded secret, so undiscovered that one could just show up and be seated right away. But now reservations must be made well in advance. Regulars know to pay attention to specials like mussels with ginger, a seasoning that’s not uncommon in Venice—a legacy, perhaps, of Asia’s influence here—as well the sautéed triglie (red mullet) and ravioli with shrimp, pumpkin and ricotta


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11: Trattoria Do Forni - Cucina Casalinga

Just off the Piazza San Marco, Do Forni (Two Ovens) is old-fashioned Venetian elegance, offering a large menu of classic seafood and other dishes served by tuxedo-clad waiters. The specialty of the house is a gloriously simple dish of lightly poached scampi and large scallops on a bed of arugula and a sauce made of nothing more than olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. There are two varieties of fritto misto, including one with little croquettes of baccalà mantecato, miniature sardines, squares of mozzarella and thin wedges of eggplant. And the particularly fine-grained version of the classic risotto nero, full of cuttlefish and its ink, is immensely satisfying.


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12: Ostaria al Garanghelo

This casual wine bar, a long, wood-paneled room with a high communal table for 18 and tables covered in placemats printed with Venetian sayings, serves up serious food, including excellent fish and shellfish pastas. Chef and co-owner Renato Osto doesn’t tamper with tradition, preparing food that is simply, unapologetically Venetian. His baccalà mantecato is very creamy and almost elegant, while his sardines in saor seem especially pure. Osto also has a long menu of risotto and spaghetti dishes, many of them piscatorial in nature. His risotto with scampi and porcini is positively decadent. If you order his spaghetti alla busara with scampi and jumbo shrimp, the waiter will bring you a bib. And you’ll need it as you slurp up every last bite.

Open everyday execpt for Tuesday.


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13: Al Ponte

From BBC Travel bacaro guide:

 


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14: Enoteca Al Volto

Recommended by BBC Bacaro Guide:

Restaurant and wine bar near the Rialto Bridge.

Open everyday except Thursday.


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15: Ai Rusteghi

From BBC: Outstanding wine selections and cicheti featuring exceptional meats – boar salami, pancetta and velvety cured lardo di Colonnata that will win you over to lard. Ask fourth-generation sommelier/owner Giovanni to choose your wine, and he’ll give you a long look to suss out your character before presenting a sensual Tocai or heady Refosco you won’t find elsewhere.


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16: Taverna Del Campiello Remer

Off the tourist routes and close to any Venetian foodie’s heart, you’ll find this vaulted cavern that opens onto a secluded square along the Grand Canal. Buffet-style lunches come fully loaded with affettati (Trevisana sausages and cured meats) and freshly made pasta for about €20. At dinner, abundant primi are served family-style with about a pound of pasta for two, and diners valiantly struggle to leave room for the grilled catch of the day and the obligatory tiramisu. Specials are recited rather than written down, and the sign says: menú turistico non ghe xe (there’s no tourist menu). Book ahead, or brave the crowds for an aperitivo and cicheti buffet.


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17: Al Nono Risorto

Manifesto or menu? At Al Nono Risorto, pizzas are listed alongside urgent action alerts: ‘No abandoning animals!’, ‘More rights for gays and domestic partners!’ Prices are left of centre, radical-chic servers can’t be bothered with petty bourgeois orders, and on sunny days, all of Venice converges on the garden for squid with polenta, the bargain house prosecco, and cross-partisan bonding.


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18: Ae Oche

Architecture students and budget-minded foodies converge here for a choice of 70-plus wood-fired pizzas and ale at excellent prices. Extreme eaters order the lip-buzzing mangiafuoco (fire-eater) with hot salami, Calabrese peppers and Tabasco sauce, while Palladio scholars stick with the classic white estiva with rocket, seasoned Grana Padano cheese and cherry tomatoes.


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19: Bacaro Risorto

A shoebox of a corner bar just over a footbridge from Piazza San Marco offering quality wines and abundant cicheti, including crostini heaped with baccalà mantecato, soft cheeses or melon tightly swaddled in prosciutto, and even the occasional sushi.


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20: Ca' d'Oro

Ca'd'Oro, known as Alla Vedova, is the osteria that most inspired my London restaurant Polpo. The small bar at the front is where locals stand and drink a small glass of regional wine, such as a flowery Bianco di Custoza from Lake Garda and eat the house speciality polpette (meatballs), just € 1.50 each, and, oh my God, they're good.


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21: La Cantina

Neighbouring La Cantina is a little more modern. It has excellent local wines (ask for pinot bianco from Friuli for a really typical taste of the region, €3) and a show-stopping cheese and meat cold plate.

La Cantina (Cannaregio 3689, Campo San Felice) which, like Polpo, has taken the simple cicheto to another level with its freshly prepared, imaginative dishes. On the bar was a tray of oysters on ice (€9 for six), which the barman shucked to order, behind it a counter of fresh fish and an ancient hand-operated slicer for the charcuterie, and on the blackboard around 30 wines available by the glass


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22: ProntoPesce

Bourdain and Gigi visit the second bacari (tapas bar), which is renowned for putting new, modern, innovative twists on old favorites.


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23: Al Diavolo e L'Acqua Santa

Bourdain meets up with a local to explore Venice's back alleys full of small eateries where they sample ombretta (a little glass of wine) and bite-size Venetian appetizers.


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24: Al Mascaron

Bourdain ends his first day in Venice at Gigi's restaurant where the chef has cooked up all the beautiful fish picked out earlier that day during Tony and Gigi's tour of the Rialto fish market.

Closed Sundays.

At the convivial, crowded Al Mascaron, with its paper tablecloths and informal atmosphere, you'll likely find locals who drop in to gossip, drink, play cards, and eat cicchetti at the bar—but there are also plenty of travelers who return again and again to take advantage of the food and the hospitality. You can count on delicious fish, pasta, risotto, and seafood salads. Locals complain that the prices have become somewhat inflated, but grudgingly admit that the food is good.


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25: Casa del Parmigiano

Cheese fans will die and go to heaven in Casa Del Parmigiano, family run since 1936 and packed to the rafters with excellent cheeses, meats and speciality produce.


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26: Muro Pizza e Cucina

From Travel & Leisure:

Young locals rave about the bargain lunch at Muro Vino e Cucina—a glass-walled wine bar with a sleek gray-and-black-themed dining room—an unlikely 21st-century sight in the historic Rialto district. We go in the evening, shouldering our way through crowds downing wine and flirting outside, despite the chill. Upstairs in the small dining room, Rosella, the genial waitress, keeps bringing warm olive rolls every few minutes. At first the clumsy English menu translations put me off. But an antipasto of "deer with truffle foam" proves to be carefully grilled venison, enough for three to share. Argentine steak, chewy but flavorful, is paired with roasted potatoes and a bowl of immaculate baby greens in a splendid vinaigrette. Since bottled water and cover charge are included, and Rosella will open a bottle to pour wine by the glass,


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27: Enoteca do Colonne

Denizens of Venice are fiercely loyal to their local bacaro (wine bar), where cichèti (small plates) can be a nibble before a meal or dinner itself. At a neighborhood wine and beer joint like Enoteca do Colonne, two or three tramezzini—sandwiches in soft dark bread, here filled with pork or salami—and perhaps a shared plate of such rough-hewn classics as musèto (a fatty sausage made mostly from pig's snout)


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28: Birraria La Corte

Pizza isn't Venice's thing, so you'll find nothing in the lagoon city to match the pizzerie of Rome or Naples. But this contemporary space on airy Campo San Polo is as good as you'll find here and has a warm, welcoming vibe even if you're dining with unruly young children. Besides pizza, there are interesting salads, a selection of pasta courses, and absolutely no fish…though a little meat sneaks onto the menu. In good weather, tables spread out into the square.

Open daily noon to 2:30 pm and 7 to 10:30 pm.


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29: Caffè dei Frari

We love this caffe - its a great place for a refuel pre or post visiting the Frari church, if you order at the bar and eat/drink at the bar its cheaper but if you want to linger a while and people watch grab one of the tables and tell the lovely staff what you would like, it doesn't cost much more. Good snacks, any drink you could possibly want from hot choc to prosecco to good red wine to spritz to beer - we have worked our way through a few here, ask Francesco the owner for inspiration, he speaks good English and is very helpful. The mezzanine is really unusual - so nice to sit upstairs and still feel the buzz of downstairs. Its a charming place


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30: La Zucca

If you're vegetarian—or just tired of Venice's fishy menus—La Zucca ("the Pumpkin") is the place to go.


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31: Bacaro Jazz

Good happy hour specials.


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32: Margaret Duchamp


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33: Piano Bar Ristorante Live music Ancora

God place to grab a pre-dinner drink or a pitstop on a bacari tapas crawl.


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34: Osteria alla Bifora

From 36 Hours in Venice -- NYTimes

"where an older, fashionable crowd meets"


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35: Venetia Studium

From 36 Hours in Venice NYTimes

"fine velvets and silks of every imaginable color are woven into delicate evening bags, scarves and pillows"


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36: Zora da Venezia

From 36 Hours in Venice (NYTimes)

"popular among well-heeled Venetians for its elegant wineglasses, intricately carved rings and giant bunches of glass grapes that make funky centerpieces"


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37: L'Osteria di Santa Marina

From The Independent "48 Hours in Venice"

L'Osteria di Santa Marina (16) at Castello 5911 (00 39 041 528 5239) is a smart, intimate restaurant decorated in timeless, traditional style – dark wooden panelling, white tablecloths, tiled floors. It's renowned for its classic Venetian dishes (black barley risotto, lemon sorbet with liquorice). The five-course tasting menu costs €80, without wine.


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38: All' Arco

Across the iconic Rialto bridge, on the other side of the Grand Canal and tucked down an alleyway, is tiny All' Arco (Calle Arco, San Polo 436, lunchtime only). On a Saturday lunchtime this friendly bacaro was heaving with shoppers from the nearby Rialto market, which sells a stunning selection of fresh fish and remains a favourite meeting place for Venetians. Plates of cicheti on the bar – langoustines, calamari, liver, speck and prawns, all served on slices of bread – were tasty enough, but what the owner Francesco Pinto was preparing behind it looked even more appetising. The hot sandwich of boiled beef sausages (which, he gesticulated, are made from the meat in the cow's head) served with mustard was the perfect winter comfort food.


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39: Cantina Do Mori

Around the corner is Do Mori (San Polo 429, Calle dei Do Mori), said to be the oldest bacaro in Venice, dating back to 1462, with a dark wood interior and copper pots hanging from the ceiling. The house speciality is francobollo (literally "postage stamp"), a tiny white-bread sandwich filled with sliced meats, radicchio, gorgonzola or roasted vegetables. This Venetian institution is an obligatory stop on the giro di ombre, yet the atmosphere is solemn, the staff seemingly forbidden to smile at customers.


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40: Ai Do Draghi

Venice is notorious for its lack of nightlife, but a good place to end a bar crawl is Campo Santa Margarita, the hangout for local and international students. Ai Do Draghi, at the north end of the square and known as the red house as much for its political leaning as for the colour of the facade, was swarming when I arrived. Like me, the cicheti were looking a little tired and dog-eared by late evening, so I ended the night with their excellent spritz, the classic Venetian cocktail.


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41: Osteria Da Fiore

Closed Sundays and Mondays.

The Martin family took over this former tavern more than 30 years ago, and today dinner here, amid the tailored, wood-trimmed decor, fine linens and Art Deco sconces, is Venetian food at its best. Such a Michelin-starred meal comes at a price, but it offers a delectable lesson in finesse. Yes, other restaurants serve soft white polenta topped with seafood, but is it this silken? Are the lightly roasted razor clams as pencil-thin? The cuttlefish as microscopic, the risotto as creamy, or all’onda (meaning “of the waves,” i.e., soupy)? And then there’s the fegato alla veneziana, that iconic local dish of calf’s-liver slivers and sweetly sautéed onions, nowhere more perfectly cooked. Linger with a plate of the lovely butter cookies and a glass of late-harvest Torcolato, the Veneto’s exquisite answer to Sauternes, made from dried grapes. Reservations are in demand, so it takes planning—or a good concierge—to get one


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