Дели!!

9am-6pm Tue-Sun
Salimgarh10am-5pm

non-Muslims 8am-½hr before sunset, minaret
9am-5.30pm

busiest (and best avoided) on Monday and Friday and during other afternoons. Come at
around 11.30am when most shops have opened and the jostling is bearable.

5am-noon & 6-9pm

dawn-dusk

24hr

10am-5pm
Tue-Sun

6am-8pm
The gardens are dotted by the crumbling
tombs of the Sayyid and Lodi rulers, including
the impressive 15th-century Bara Gumbad

dawn-dusk

4am-9pm

dawn-dusk

9.30am1pm
& 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri

9am-dusk

9.30am-5.30pm
Tue-Sun

dawn-dusk

sunrise-sunset
There’s a Decorative Light Show (Indian/
foreigner ₹20/250; h6.30-8pm) nightly. The
Qutb Festival takes place here every October/
November.
Be warned that Qutb Minar gets crowded
on weekends.

8.30am-5.30pm

dawn-dusk

7am-midnight
try the burrah (marinated mutton)
kebab

9.30am-10.30pm
handy spot for a top-notch thali (₹156), choley
bhature and other morsels, some tasty
South Indian cuisine, or namkin (savouries)
and mithai (sweets) on the dash. Try the
soan papadi (fl aky sweet with almond and
pistachio).

parathas (traditional fl at
bread) fresh off the tawa (hotplate). Stuff ed
varieties include aloo (potato), mooli
(white radish), smashed pappadams and
crushed badam (almond), all served with a
splodge of tangy pickles.

India’s – fi nest jalebis (deep-fried, syrupy
squiggles)

7am-midnight

noon-midnight
It’s famed for its butter
chicken and dhal Makhani.

SWEETS
Try some sohan halwa (ghee-dipped gram
flour biscuits).

7am-midnight
This bright little canteen offers
tasty snacks such as paratha (stuffed
bread) and channa bhatura (spicy chickpeas
with fried puffed bread).

the best kebabs in Delhi

kheer (rice pudding)

8am - 6pm
devoted to just one dish:
chole (spicy chickpeas) accompanied by delicious,
freshly made paratha stuff ed with
spices and paneer.

noon-11pm
Nothing fl ash, but one of the best bets in Paharganj:
a simple, clean and tasty pure veg
restaurant. Try the saag paneer (spinach
and cottage cheese) and Tadka dhal.

Snug,
smartish Malhotra off ers tasty Indian, continental
and Chinese food that keeps it busy
with a mix of locals and backpackers.

On Vivek Hotel’s ground fl oor and
(much more atmospheric) rooftop, Sam’s
does reasonble breakfasts and is a tranquil
place to hang; it’s usually packed with travellers.
The pizzas are a good bet.

Tuck into a basic thali for just ₹40 at this
basic veg cafe; outside tables are ideal for
watching the human traffic. Facing is the
similar Khosla Café.

This cane-furnished, plant-strewn rooftop
restaurant is a relaxing place to kill time
over the usual world-ranging menu.

pick
8am-10.30pm
Massively popular,
Tamil Saravana has a fast-food feel, but food
is by no means junk: dosas, idlis and other
southern specialities, accompanied by delectable
coconut chutneys. Inventive sweets
include cucumber-seed ladoos (sweet balls).
Finish with a South Indian coff ee.

pick
8am-10.30pm
Massively popular,
Tamil Saravana has a fast-food feel, but food
is by no means junk: dosas, idlis and other
southern specialities, accompanied by delectable
coconut chutneys. Inventive sweets
include cucumber-seed ladoos (sweet balls).
Finish with a South Indian coff ee.

This takeaway eatery
has some seating and creates masterful
kebabs and kathi rolls (kebab wrapped in
paratha). It’s always busy with kebab-loving
hoards.

noon3pm
A hallowed bargain: tasty
unlimited South Indian thalis at cheap-aschips
prices; nonveg is also available. It’s
canteen-style, delicious and hugely popular.

$$$
10am-midnight)
Oozing old-world charm and full of characters
that look as elderly as the fi xtures and
fi ttings, this classic 1940s restaurant is a
splendid spot to slow the pace. It has a long
menu covering everything from pizza to paneer (cottage cheese). Try the butter chicken.
It’s great for an afternoon drink too (small
Kingfi sher ₹165

Bakery
10.45am7.45pm
Legendary Wenger’s has been baking
since 1926 when it was opened by a South
African expat. It’s always buzzing and there’s
a great array of sweet and savoury treats, including
perfect patties.

Another
dosa dreamland, with expertly prepared
dosas, idlis, uttapams (savoury rice
pancakes) and other smashing southern
goodies, plus thalis.

Hotel Broadway, 4/15A Asaf Ali Rd.
Delhi's best-known Kashmiri restaurant (there is also an outpost in London) is also one of its most beautiful, an art deco enclave with a tile floor, a spiral staircase leading nowhere, lamps in pinks and yellows, and a mixture of antique furniture and mirrors from various chor ("thieves'") bazaars. The bar is all dark wood and stained glass, and the salad bar is a 1927 Fiat roadster. Kashmiri food uses milder spices than many Indian cuisines, exemplified by mutton yakhni (simmered in a sauce of yogurt, cardamom, and aniseed), mutton mirchi korma (in a gravy of cardamom and cloves), and haaq (Kashmiri spinach cooked in its own juice). Try a tarami platter to sample several dishes, and punctuate your meal with kahwah, fragrant Kashmiri tea.

Atrium cafe
from 3 pm
3-6pm from Monday to Thursday @ INR 750+ taxes

11.30am-midnight This simple dhaba
(snack bar) is a basic hole in the wall
that’s popular with local workers for its
butter chicken and other Mughlai Punjabi
dishes.

1-3pm
The staff canteen at Kerala House
was, at the time of writing, housed in part
of the underground car park, but don’t
let this put you off. It’s open to the public
and tasty meals here are a bargain, including
unlimited rice, sambar, a couple of veg
dishes and pickle.

ICE CREAM
Drop into Nirula’s
for its hot chocolate fudge ice cream,
every Delhiite’s favourite flavour.

Habitat’s cheap-and-cheerful food court
Eatopia, with good chaat, Chinese and Indian
food.

Famous sweet shop serving
up yummy chaat (snacks), namkin
(savouries) and mithai (sweets), plus good
thalis (₹130).

SWEETS & SNACKS
Next door to Nathu’s, this is another popular
canteen-style eaterie, with a terrace out
the front where local families tuck into
chaat, sweets, South Indian dishes and
thalis

Pick
noon-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-
Sun
You reach this cool place
up numerous fl ights to the 3rd fl oor. The
setting is great: a simple room with wicker
chairs that opens onto huge views over the
greenery of Hauz Khas. The food is fi t to
match, with dishes such as Kerala-style vegetable
korma, toddy-shop meen (fi sh) curry,
and sweet-and-sour pumpkin. Bookings are
essential.

8am-10.30pm
Since
1963 Evergreen has been keeping punters
happy with its snacks, chaat and South
Indian dishes. It’s a hugely popular, bright,
clean two-level place that’s perfect for a
quick lunch or dinner.

9.30am-9.30pm
This bookish,
boho cafe ticks all the boxes when you’re
in the mood for coff ee and gateau (the ‘gooey
chocolate cake’ is a triumph).

9am-9pm
Stuck-in-time Indian Coff ee House
is down at heel, but serves up basic, cheap
snacks and south Indian coff ee (₹13!) and
has a 2nd-fl oor terrace.

8am-10pm
Bringing a touch of class to Paharganj, this
South African-owned, two-level cafe has a
chic, arty feel, sculptural chairs, good coff ee
and yummy cheesecake.

In this dark, wood-panelled
dive, a large Kingfi sher costs a bargain ₹102
(including tax). Upstairs has more atmosphere.
The snacks are good too.

7am-11pm
This hotel’s rooftop restaurant
is a breezier choice than Gem, with al fresco
drinking on its terrace and a 330cl Kingfi sher for ₹80.

10am-12.30pm
Another dark
and dingy bar where the main charm is the
cheap beer (Kingfi sher costs ₹72 for 330ml)
and the chance to hang out with other backpackers.

10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, noon7.30pm
Sun
After browsing
at the Oxford, pop into Cha for a tea with
a view (over CP). More than 75 fl avours to
choose from, and the blueberry muffi ns are
fab too.

Connaught Place’s swishest
watering hole has a Q-shaped bar, dim lighting,
leather chairs and Chesterfi eld sofas.
Upstairs is the fi ne-dining restaurant (from
7pm) and there’s a roof terrace, ideal on sultry
evenings.

noon-11pm
This location has undergone
yet another makeover, and this time
emerged as a high-kitsch ‘village restaurant’
complete with a fake central tree. It still has
possibly CP’s cheapest beers and cocktails
(Kingfi sher ₹120, cocktails from ₹120).

11am-7.30pm Tue-
Sun
This unique cafe is run
by travel authors and photographers and
has a pay-what-you-like policy, self-service
French-press coff ee and tea, and travel
books and magazines to browse. You can
also BYO drinks and food and put your iPod
in the dock!

For silver jewellery (some gold) head for Dariba Kalan, near the Sisganj Gurdwara.